Raechele Cochran Gathers, MD
Co-washing, which is short for conditioner washing, gained popularity thanks to many naturals practicing the curly girl method, which promoted co-washing and discouraged both traditional shampoos and silicone containing products. As the co-washing craze became more popular, many hair care companies developed various ‘conditioner-washes,’ ‘lo-poo’ washes and sulfate free shampoos—all aimed at attracting curly or textured hair consumers that are concerned about the ‘drying’ or ‘stripping’ effects of traditional shampoos. While there are many fans of co-washing, there are also those who are pro-shampoo.
Should You Co-Wash?
So, why would someone want to avoid shampoo in the first place? Well, shampoos, at least the traditional ones, have chemicals called sulfates in them. Sulfates, such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and ammonium laurel sulfate (ALS) promote a nice lather and get the hair clean. Unfortunately, though, these same chemicals also strip the hair of its natural oils, and can cause the hair to be dry—which translates to brittle and breaking hair. Those with African American or very textured hair can be more prone to the drying effects of traditional shampoos.
Co-Washing Pros
- Avoids the drying effects of traditional shampoos
- Provides a gentle, very light cleansing effect
- May be useful for those that are active and wish to wash a couple times weekly
- More moisturized hair may reduce breakage
- Leaves hair feeling smoother
Co-Washing Cons
- Doesn’t thoroughly cleanse hair
- Can lead to buildup on the hair
- Moisture overload leading to soggy, overly soft, weak hair
- Protein overload (if co-washing with a protein conditioner) leading to hard, brittle hair
- Can exacerbate dryness
Conclusion
For some, Co-washing can be a nice addition to a regular cleansing routine. But in most cases you probably shouldn’t co-wash exclusively. If you are active, workout or sweat a lot and want to wash your hair a couple times a week, co-washing can be helpful since it will offer a very light cleansing and leave the hair coated and more moisturized feeling. Washing your hair a couple times a week with traditional shampoos could dry your hair out.
But remember, co-washing will not remove product buildup, and product buildup can lead to dryness, tangles and brittle hair. Each time you co-wash it’s like you’re leaving a layer of conditioner on your hair. After a while, these layers will build up on your hair and leave a coating that makes it hard for your hair to absorb water. This will make your hair drier and more fragile.
Also, if you’ve got a scalp condition like folliculitis, seborrheic dermatitis or psoriasis, co-washing may not be for you. The buildup from the conditioners may exacerbate your condition. Conditioner build up on the scalp may cause irritation, which can set you up for bacterial infections, which can lead to hair loss!
If you decide to co-wash, you should probably still incorporate a shampoo into your hair care regimen. If you’re concerned about the drying effects of traditional shampoos, there are a number of highly rated sulfate free shampoos like Curl Clarity Shampoo from As I Am, and conditioning shampoos like Cantu Shea Butter Conditioning Co-wash. There are also natural alternatives like rhassoul clay washes, which we discuss here.
