Raechele Cochran Gathers, MD What is a Retinoid?
Ask any dermatologist her top 3 skin care must-haves, and she’ll probably mention a retinoid. Retinoids are a scientifically proven powerhouse for your skin, and you probably need one in your life. The term ‘retinoid’ encompasses a whole group of compounds that are derivatives of Vitamin A. Retinoids come in several different formulations and strengths and can be both over the counter and prescription. While retinoids may differ in terms of their effectiveness and the level of irritation they can cause (more on that later), most of them have proven benefits and are amazing for your skin.
Retinoid, Retinol and Retinoic Acid?
Retinoid is an umbrella term, and it includes both over-the counter (OTC) compounds containing retinol and prescription products containing retinoic acid.
There are also other types of retinoids like retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl linoleate, which are weaker types of retinoids, but might be more appropriate for retinoid newbies, or those with very sensitive skin. Avène RetrinAL is a gentle brand, good for more sensitive skin.
Another type of retinoid is adapalene, found in the product Differin, which used to be prescription, but is now sold OTC.
What’s the Difference Between OTC and Prescription Retinoids?
Over the counter (OTC) retinols take longer to work than prescription retinoic acid products. That’s because retinol must be converted into retinoic acid by the skin, on a cellular level. By contrast, prescription retinoic acid products (like Retin A) are already active and don’t need any extra conversion once you put them on the skin. They start working their magic right away.
What Makes Retinoids Amazing for Skin?
Retinoids work by increasing collagen production and speeding cell turnover in the skin, helping to reduce clogged pores. They have many benefits including:
- Smoother/Even-toned skin
- Reduced wrinkles
- Reduced uneven pigment
- Decreased dark spots
- Reduced acne
- Brighter/glowing skin
What’s Better: OTC or Prescription?
Since prescription retinoids don’t have to be converted into their active ingredient once you put them on your skin, they work a lot faster than OTC retinoids. However, prescription retinoic acid products can sometimes be more irritating (at least at first). Prescription products can also be more expensive than OTC products. Some Derms recommend starting slow, with an OTC retinol like Neturogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Face Oil Retinoid Serum, and then working up to a prescription retinoid.
How Long for Results?
How long before you get this glowing, clear, youthful-looking skin that retinoids seem to promise? In general, OTC retinol products can take several months to a year before you notice visible results. Prescription products should work faster, with noticeable results in 3-4 months. Remember: Patience is a virtue.
How Do I Start Using a Retinoid?
1. Use at Night.
You should apply your prescription or OTC retinoid product to your face at night, because sunlight can inactivate it!
2. Use a Pea Sized Amount.
A green pea sized amount should be plenty for your entire face. More won’t make it work faster.
3. Start Every 3rd Night.
Since retinoids can cause some mild irritation when you first start using them, start using them 3 nights a week, and gradually work up to every night if you can.
4. Follow Up with Moisturizer.
Since retinoids can cause dryness and flaking, it’s fine to apply a moisturizer to your face after your retinoid. A good one is CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM.
5. Start with an OTC Product.
If you’re sensitive, or want to start slowly, start with an OTC retinoid like ROC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Anti-Aging Retinol Night Cream and then see a dermatologist when you are ready for a stronger prescription product like Retin A or Renova.
What are Possible Side Effects?
The most common side effects from retinoids are irritation, dryness and flaking. A little bit of this is normal and should go away with time. If you’re noticing this, try using your retinoid less often, or applying it after your moisturizer, until your skin gets more used to it. Retinoids should NOT be used if you are pregnant, trying to get pregnant or breastfeeding. Also, if you have eczema, rosacea or very sensitive skin, be very cautious, and talk to your dermatologist before starting a retinoid.
What Age is Best to Start A Retinoid?
Now! Just kidding. But really, retinoids are helpful in the teens for acne, and women can start them as early as their 20’s. And any person out of their teens can start to use them at any time to get in on the benefits of decreased wrinkling, smoother skin and a more even and bright skin tone. I’ve written prescriptions for retinoids for women from 22 to 85!
Conclusion
Retinoids are amazing for your skin: They can even your complexion, help fade scars and dark spots, reduce acne and decrease wrinkles. Along with sunscreen and vitamin C serums, they are a definite must have for amazing skin at ay age.
