Raechele Cochran Gathers, MD The cold and dry days of winter are infamous for leaving many of us with dry, flaking, itchy, red, and parched skin. Harsh winter weather can be dehydrating for the skin, and for those using retinols, the effects of winter weather on the skin can be magnified. Though they love the benefits of regularly using a retinol, many people have issues tolerating retinols on their skin during the winter.
But fret not, with some smart changes, you can likely continue to use a retinol throughout the colder winter months. Here are several steps you can take to help your skin tolerate using a retinol during the winter, so that you can still reap the benefits of using a retinol all year long.
1. Use Your Retinol Less Often
It’s okay to use a retinol less often during the winter. During the winter, some people can only tolerate a retinol a few days a week. Using your retinol every other night, or even just twice a week can still give you tremendous benefits, while also helping reduce the chances of irritation and dryness from your retinol during the winter. As the weather warms, and as your skin becomes more tolerant, you can gradually increase how often you’re using your retinol.
It’s also always a good idea to follow the package directions when using a retinol. Retinols are treatments, so they should typically be used sparingly. Most prescription retinol medications recommend using only a pea sized amount to cover the entire face.
2. Double Down on Moisturizer
Because retinols can be more drying and irritating during the winter months, many people use the ‘moisturizer sandwich’ technique with their retinol. The moisturizer sandwich technique involves using a base layer of moisturizer on clean skin, then applying your retinol on top of this, and then, finally, applying another level of moisturizer on top of the retinol. Think of your moisturizer as a protective shield. Using your retinol between two layers of moisturizer can help prevent dryness, flaking, redness and irritation.
During the colder months of winter, you can also switch from a lotion-based moisturizer to a cream-based moisturizer. Cream-based moisturizers are thicker and will offer greater hydration, protection, and soothing than lotion-based moisturizers. Definitely make sure whatever moisturizer you’re using is non-comedogenic (won’t clog pores and cause acne).
Look for moisturizers with ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid and glycerin. La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer is packed with skin barrier enriching ceramides, glycerin and ant-inflammatory niacinamide.
3. Use a Lower Strength Retinol
During the winter months, consider switching out your prescription retinoid for a drugstore retinol or one formulated for sensitive skin types. Milder drugstore retinol formulations can still pack in great benefits, without the dryness that prescription products like tretinoin can cause. When the weather warms, you can always switch back to your regular prescription product.
4. Don’t Mix Retinols with Exfoliating Ingredients
Some ingredients play well with retinols, and some don’t always. Especially during the winter, it’s important to be cautious with ingredients that exfoliate the skin. Ingredients like alpha hydroxy acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and beta hydroxy acid exfoliate the skin and could prove too irritating to use with retinols. If you choose to use an exfoliant, or a product with one of these ingredients, never use it at the same time as your retinol. Instead, during the cold winter months, use your exfoliant on days that you’re not using a retinol, since exfoliants could make the retinol penetrate more deeply, which might exacerbate inflammation and skin irritation. Play it safe, and alternate retinol days and exfoliant days.
5. Check Your Skin Care Routine
A key to being able to tolerate a retinol during the colder winter months is to make sure that your skin is in tip-top shape for when the cold weather arrives. A healthy skin barrier will help your skin tolerate a retinol product during the winter months. The three main skin care pillars that you’ll need to evaluate are your cleanser, your moisturizer, and your sunscreen. Look for a mild cleanser that won’t strip or irritate your skin. CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser contains ceramides, glycerin and hyaluronic acid. Also, since retinol can make your skin more sensitive to sun exposure, make sure that you’re wearing at least an SPF 30 sunscreen on your face every day. Even the cold winter months demand a sunscreen.
6. Consider a Retinol Substitute
For some people, retinols are just too irritating to use during the winter months. For those that simply can’t tolerate a retinol when it’s cold and dry out, consider taking a long hard look at bakuchiol. Derived from the seeds and leaves of the plant Psoralea Corylifolia, bakuchiol is an antioxidant, and has been used in Asia for years. It works on the same skin receptors as retinols, but is not as irritating as retinols, which is great for those with sensitive skin. Though data is limited, in some studies, bakuchiol has been found to be comparable to retinols for reducing the signs of photoaging like wrinkling and skin discoloration.
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