Raechele Cochran Gathers, MD Long popular in France, and popular backstage at European fashion shows for cleansing the skin of models, micellar water burst onto the American skin care scene several years ago. What is micellar water? Does micellar water live up to its claims? And most importantly: Is micellar water really good for your skin?
What is Micellar Water?
Bottles of micellar water are pretty to look at. They look like bottles of pure clean water. In fact, micellar waters are composed of mostly water. Micellar water contains purified (soft) water, mild dilute cleansers (surfactants) and often hydrating (moisturizing) ingredients like glycerin. Micellar water is made up of ‘micelles’. Micelles are clusters of surfactant (cleansing) molecules, with hydrophobic (loves oil, hates water) and hydrophilic (loves water, hates oil) ends.
When you cleanse your face with micellar water, the hydrophobic ends of the little micelles are like a magnet for the yucky stuff: Grabbing onto the dirt, grease/sebum, and makeup on your skin, pulling it away, and leaving your skin cleaner.
Micelle
Ingredients in Micellar Water?
The most popular surfactants found in micellar waters are quaternary surfactants, also called ‘quats,’ which yield a gentle cleanse and are popular in the hair care industry. A popular quat ingredient is cetrimonium bromide. Other cleansers include polysorbate 20, which is a non-foaming cleanser, and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, which is derived from coconut oil, and is a surfactant often found in baby shampoo.
Benefits of Micellar Water
People are in love with micellar water. Why? Ease of use! It is billed as a ‘One and Done’ product: Cleanser, makeup remover and moisturizer…all in one. Imagine how this could simplify your nighttime routine! Micellar water is also popular because many people see it as gentler on the skin than traditional cleansers. In fact, it was originally produced in France, since Paris had infamously hard water that could be rough on the skin. Usually alcohol free, micellar water is thought of as a kinder/gentler way to cleanse.
Micellar water is said to cleanse the skin and leave it more hydrated with just one product…no rinsing required. (More on the rinsing thing later….) Many sources also claim that because micellar water is good for acne prone skin, since it cleanses without stripping and over-drying the skin, which can sometimes worsen acne.
Should you Rinse After Using Micellar Water?
Makers of many popular micellar waters say that their micellar waters don’t require rinsing. You literally just swab, pat dry and go. This, however, is definitely controversial. In the dermatology publication, Dermatology Times, dermatologist Zoe Draelos suggests rinsing with water after using micellar water. Others suggest that micellar water, no matter how gentle, still leaves a film on the skin that should be rinsed off, since this film could eventually clog the pores and also prevent the absorption of other products that you might be treating your skin with.
Other dermatologists claim that micellar water still leaves impurities behind on your skin. More troubling, are some claims that because micellar water may not adequately remove eye makeup, the oil glands around the eyes may become clogged, leading to inflammation and infection in the delicate eye area. So, should you rinse after using micellar water? Maybe. It probably depends on your makeup type, which micellar water you’re using and how sensitive your skin is to the particular ingredients in your micellar water.
Which Micellar Water Is Best?
There are loads of micellar waters out there. Bioderma Sensibio H2O gets many good reviews and is mentioned a one of the original micellar waters. Bioderma Sensibio H2O is made in France, where micellar water first originated.
For oilier skin types, consider: La Roche-Posay Effaclar, which contains zinc to remove excess oils from the skin.
Photo credit: micelles: By Jwleung; Featured Image: cherry
