Raechele Cochran Gathers, MD “I’m a 37 year old woman, and for the last couple years, I’ve noticed that the skin above my upper lip is dark! I shave this area about once or twice a month. This is starting to be very embarrassing. The darkening above my upper lip makes me look like I have a mustache, even after the hair is removed! What can I do?”
Dark spots, blotchiness and uneven skin tone are a problem for a lot of us. Skin of color is especially prone to developing darkness and uneven color, especially after sun exposure or irritation. Even very minor irritation of the skin can cause it to be discolored.
Uneven skin and dark spots can be super embarrassing, and women spend tons of money on various creams and serums to help fade dark spots. It’s important to know where your problem is so that you can attack it intelligently and efficiently!
Causes of Darkening Above the Upper Lip
1. Post inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, PIH, is a darkening of the skin that can occur with any sort of irritation of the skin. In our Dear Reader’s case, I suspect that the shaving of her upper lip hair is causing enough subtle irritation of her skin to cause the upper lip area to darken. Friction, from the rubbing of the razor along her skin, can cause what we call frictional hyperpigmentation. She also could be experiencing some irritation from the blade itself, or whatever product she is using to prime her skin with. Often, irritated skin will be itchy, red or tender. But if the irritation is very subtle, you might not even know that it’s happening! Darkening above the upper lip is super common after hair removal—and not just from shaving. Waxing and depilatories can also sometimes cause irritation and darkening of the skin.
2. Melasma
The other thing that could be contributing to our Dear Reader’s darkening is a common condition called melasma. Melasma doesn’t hurt or itch. It’s a discoloration of the skin that typically has no symptoms. Melasma can cause dark patches above the upper lip, forehead, temples and cheeks.
Melasma is not rare in women, and can be associated with hormones, pregnancy and sun exposure. You can read more about melasma here. There are other possible causes of darkening on the face, including acanthosis nigricans (which can be a clue to diabetes!) and other less common skin conditions. It’s important that our Dear Reader see her dermatologist to sort things out completely!
Treating Darkening Above the Upper Lip:
1. Stop/Limit Doing What’s Causing It!
Darkening above the upper lip from irritation or friction can get worse and worse unless you make some changes quickly. If you notice redness, itching or burning after removing hair above your upper lip, there’s a good chance that you have irritation that could lead to darkening of your skin. Try to find a less irritating way of removing your hair. Some women can’t tolerate shaving, but do fine with a monthly wax.
There are also other ways to remove hair. Laser hair removal has come a long way where skin of color is concerned. If you’re interested in a more permanent hair removal solution like laser hair removal, look for a board certified dermatologist who is an expert in treating skin of color. Check this site out: Skin of Color Society.
There’s also a prescription cream, Vaniqa. Applied to areas of unwanted facial hair twice daily, Vaniqa is not a ‘cure’ for facial hair. It slows the rate of hair growth. So, if you typically have to wax twice monthly, you may be able to get away with waxing every other month or so. Vaniqa is not cheap, and can take 4-8 weeks before you see results. I have personally used Vaniqa, and did find it helpful. But believe this: When you stop using it, that hair is coming right back!
2. Try a Fade Cream
The most popular ingredient in fade creams is hydroquinone. It can be very effective and is relatively affordable. Your dermatologist can write a prescription for it to help fade darkening above your upper lip. Another option is to purchase an over-the-counter dark spot fading product. A good one to try is Paula’s Choice Discoloration Repair Serum, which contains tranexamic acid and niacinamide, which can be helpful for fading dark spots.
Read more about fading dark scars and spots here.
3. Use an Antioxidant
Antioxidants are a buzzy item in beauty and health. Antioxidants are compounds that can prevent damage to your skin and body. Vitamins C, E and green tea are all powerful antioxidants that can help improve your skin’s texture, make it look smoother and more youthful and also help in the fight against dark spots. One of my favorite antioxidant serums is Skinceuticals CE Ferulic Serum. While it’s certainly on the pricier side, a little bit goes a long way and it contains true and tested antioxidants to help keep your skin tone more even.
Never fear though: If you’re not trying to spend $100 plus on skin products, another great antioxidant option, that won’t break the bank is ArtNaturals Vitamin C serum. This brightening serum contains vitamins C, E and ferulic acid (similar to the Skinceuticals serum!) and can provide extra defense for your skin.
4. Wear Sunscreen
Yes, honey, we brown girls need sunscreen too! Please do not sleep on the importance of wearing a daily sunscreen. Even in the dead of winter, sunscreen is important. Besides protecting you from wrinkles and skin cancer, sunscreen is vital for keeping your complexion even and reducing dark spots. Ask any dermatologist, and they’ll probably say that sunscreen is the #1 most important thing you can do to promote even and unmarred skin!
I really like Aveeno Positively Radiant moisturizer with SPF 30. This light moisturizer and sunscreen won’t clog your pores, and it contains sunscreen and a skin brightening agent called Total Soy Complex which can decrease the look of dark spots. If you have stubborn darkening above your upper lip, there are also other alternatives, such as chemical peels and some lasers. Your dermatologist should be able to help you find the best option for your skin.
