Raechele Cochran Gathers, MD There is a long standing myth that the hair of African Americans (or those of African descent) does not grow. Nothing could be further from the truth. African American hair, like the hair of all humans, does grow. And, barring any medical issues, if you cut it, it will grow back.
African American Hair Growth
Does the hair of African Americans grow slower than other groups of people? In published studies, African hair grows about 4 inches per year; compared to Caucasians at 5.2 inches per year, and Asians at 5.8 inches per year. But keep in mind, many studies were not done on African Americans. Since African Americans are a mosaic of many different types of people (African, European, and Native American in many cases), their average yearly hair growth is arguably somewhere in between all these numbers. Additionally, these published results are only averages, so your hair very well may grow much faster than the average 4 inches per year.
African American Hair is Fragile
Because of the fragile nature of naturally coiled and curled tresses, African American hair is much more likely to break with everyday styling and grooming. This is why some African Americans have trouble keeping long hair lengths. In one study, it was reported that simple normal combing of African hair can cause tangles, knots and breakage. The study author concluded that combing the hair was like getting a “small daily haircut,” causing the hair to appear to always stay about the same length!
Factors Determining Hair Length
- Hair growth rate
- The length of the anagen growth phase (which can be anywhere from 2 to 7 years)
- Hair retention ( keeping hair ends from snapping, splitting and breaking off)
Your hair’s growth rate is pretty much genetically set in stone, and there is no scientifically proven way to change that yet. The length of anagen is also pretty hard to change, though there may be some ways to influence it. Hair retention, however, is something that one can influence. With the right balance of moisture, protein and gentle and low manipulation care, breakage can be minimized, and the hair should grow to longer lengths.
Hair Structure
The hair shaft is composed of three layers:
- Cuticle (outermost)
- Cortex
- Medulla (innermost)
The cuticle is composed of dead cells that look like shingles on a roof. You can think of it as the hair’s body armor! The cuticle gives the hair a lot of its strength and resilience, and it is the first line of defense for the hair. The cuticle also helps determines the water content of the hair too. If the cuticle is open, your hair will be porous, and dry out easily, as the moisture tends to more easily evaporate from the hair! The flatter the cuticle lays to the hair shaft, the shinier and more resilient your hair. 
The cortex, or middle part of the hair shaft, is the primary source of hair strength. The cortex also contains the pigment that will determine hair color. The medulla is the inner most part of the hair shaft, and it is not present in every hair. The hair of most African Americans looks like a twisted helix. However, as African American hair is the most diverse of all hair types, it may look wavy, curly, coiled, zig-zagged, or sometimes even straight.
Why is African American Hair Curly?
African American hair is naturally coily or curly, in part, because the hair follicles are curved, rather than straight. Because of the curved nature of African American hair follicles, hair grows in an ‘S’ pattern–which is part of what gives it its spiral nature.
Conclusion
The curved hair follicle of African American hair can lead to a generally more curly or coily look to the hair. African American hair also tends to be more fragile, due to it’s coiled nature. African American hair, like other hair types, can reach long lengths. However, as the hair is more delicate, it can require special care to optimize its growth.
Electron microscope images: Khumalo NP et al. J Am Acad Dermatol 2000;43(5)814-20.
Hair follicle images: Thibaut S et al. Br J Dermatol 2005;152:632-38.
